MARGARETVILLE — The morning frost was gradually giving way to sunshine as visitors made their way through the historic buildings of Hubbell Farm for its annual cider pressing this past weekend. From the old cider barn came the unmistakable chug-chug-chug-BOOM of a century-old engine, its rhythmic firing echoing across the farm, over Route 30 and into the surrounding valley.
For generations, that distinctive sound has accompanied the autumn tradition of transforming freshly harvested apples into cider. On Saturday, the machinery was once again running, drawing local families, farmers and visitors eager to experience a piece of the region's agricultural heritage.
Yet the annual gathering is about considerably more than the cider press itself. Through the efforts of several generations of the Hubbell family, the occasion has become a celebration of farming history, family traditions and the community connections that continue to give the old farm its character.
The Hubbell family's roots on the property date to 1848, while family records indicate that the cider press was purchased in 1878. Nearly 150 years later, the historic equipment remains in operation, maintained by family members who have inherited both the machinery and the knowledge required to keep it working.
For Rudd Hubbell, that continuity carries a particularly personal significance. Reflecting on the experience of spending his life working where earlier generations of his family worked, Rudd said, “You get to spend your life where your great-grandfather and your great-uncles and everybody worked, and you're still getting to work. It's pretty cool.”
Even the smallest details carry meaning. Rudd spoke about operating the same equipment used by his ancestors, explaining, “You pull the same lever as they pulled.” With younger generations now participating in the farm's operations, those familiar movements continue to connect the family's past with its future.
The cider mill once served a considerably different purpose. During the region's agricultural heyday, farmers brought wagonloads and truckloads of apples to be pressed, often storing the resulting cider for drinking, vinegar production or fermentation.
Rudd remembers when farmers arrived with apples and filled 55-gallon drums with cider for the year. The traffic sometimes stretched along Route 30 toward the nearby cemetery. “They would be backed almost down to the cemetery,” he recalled, describing a line of vehicles extending nearly a quarter-mile as farmers waited their turn.
Today, the gathering reflects changes in the local economy and the people who visit the farm. While some continue bringing apples for pressing, others come simply to experience the historic operation.
“When I was a kid, all the local farmers brought their apples here,” Rudd explained. Now, he said, “People just want to come see it run and listen to the old engine.”
Much of that history remains visible inside the weathered wooden cider barn, where heavy timbers, antique equipment and historical displays offer visitors a glimpse into an earlier era of farming.
Among the most remarkable pieces of equipment is the Fairbanks-Morse gasoline engine installed brand-new in 1917. The single-cylinder, 15-horsepower engine replaced an earlier steam-powered system and continues to supply the mechanical power needed for cider production.
Colby Hubbell explained that the engine has required remarkably little major repair during its long service. He recalled that his father once thought he had damaged it when the engine block cracked, but the family was able to repair it and keep the machinery running.
The engine operates without a conventional radiator. Instead, cold spring water flows continuously through it during operation, providing the cooling necessary to keep it running. That water must be drained before winter to prevent freezing damage.
Its distinctive rhythm comes from the engine's firing cycle. “Every time it fires, you hear it pop, pop, pop, pop,” Colby explained. Although visitors sometimes mistake it for a hit-and-miss engine, he noted that it is actually throttle-governed and fires on every cycle.
The farm's preservation efforts extend beyond the cider press. Rudd described restoring a sawmill dating to 1866 with assistance from local miller Pete Ballard during the late 1970s or early 1980s. The restored equipment later helped produce lumber for renovations to the farm's buildings.
The arrival of the railroad in the late 1870s also played an important role in the farm's history, making it possible to transport large machinery such as the cider press into the region.
Kevin Hubbell, who helps maintain the farm's daily operations, was among the first family members welcoming visitors into the cider barn on Saturday. Alongside Colby, he shared the history of the equipment and the continuing tradition of cider production.
The mill remains a working agricultural operation rather than simply a historical attraction. Local residents still bring their own apples for custom pressing, generally requiring a minimum of approximately five bushels.
For some families, the annual visit remains a longstanding tradition, providing cider to enjoy throughout the colder months. As the family explained during the tour, local growers remain essential to keeping the press operating, while other visitors come primarily to watch the machinery and experience the farm's history.
The continuing involvement of younger family members offers encouragement that the tradition will endure. During the interview, the family reflected on the importance of preserving the equipment and passing responsibility to another generation, observing that not many farms have managed to maintain such continuity.
But perhaps the most memorable aspect of the annual event is the ease with which visitors become part of the gathering.
Barbara Hubbell spent the day greeting longtime friends, welcoming newcomers and sharing stories. Her warm, attentive presence has become a familiar part of the farm's community events.
At one point, she spontaneously invited a group of guests to walk up the hillside to visit the farm's Scottish Highland cattle. Adults and children followed her along the country lane and into the fields overlooking the property, enjoying another side of the family's agricultural life.
The cattle provided their own lively contribution to the festivities.
As a wagon carrying leftover apple pulp made its way toward their pasture, the shaggy animals came running downhill, announcing their enthusiasm with loud moos. The pulp, a byproduct of the pressing process, provided a welcome treat.
The scene offered a delightful reminder that Hubbell Farm remains a living agricultural landscape, not simply a collection of historic buildings and machinery.
That connection between the farm's past and future was also evident in the days surrounding the annual pressing.
On Friday, students from Roxbury Central School and Davenport visited the property, learning about traditional cider production and experiencing a part of local history that might otherwise be encountered only in photographs or textbooks.
In the lower cider storage area, a wall displaying expressions of thanks offered another indication of the farm's lasting impact on visitors.
The family's community involvement also extends beyond the annual pressing. Their contribution of farm-produced chorizo to Sacred Soil's Día de los Muertos celebration reflects a willingness to share the farm's resources with other local gatherings.
For Rudd, seeing the community embrace the tradition has become one of its greatest rewards. “We're just very fortunate,” he said. “It's nice that the community comes out and enjoys it with us.”
The growing interest has also inspired an additional cider-pressing gathering on Halloween, Saturday, Oct. 31. Rudd and Barbara Hubbell were considering a 9 a.m. starting time, although the schedule had not been finalized.
The family is also looking ahead to the cider press's 150th anniversary in 2028. Rudd discussed plans for a larger celebration that could include live music and a barbecue, providing another opportunity to bring the community together.
As the cider engine sounded across the valley once again, visitors explored the old barn, shared conversations with the family and watched another autumn harvest become fresh cider.
Nearly a century and a half after the historic press arrived at the farm, the tradition remains firmly rooted in the people who sustain it and the community that gathers to celebrate it.
Pictured: The Hubbell Family all together for the annual cider press in Margaretville. Barbara, Rudd, Becky, Toby, Morgan, Kevin, In the back Karen, John Front Row Jamie Jerrod, baby is Jordyn, Mackenzie , Vanessa, Nate.
